Sunday, November 8, 2009

Montenegro and Albanian rains

The ruins and brilliant coastlines of Montenegro offered insight into the nature of a former Yogoslovian nation that took precise measures to milk their independance as much as possible. It is now a part of the EU, pristine and friendly. We connected with some inspiring local artists under the full moon nights at the foot of ancient fortresses in Kotor and Bar. We stayed in Stari Bar (old Bar), a half rouined ancient city which is being restored by the community and lived in by artists, scientists, and philosophers who are dedicated since the 80's to creating a cultural hub in the context of growing and evolving collectively. Even through the construction, the spirit and sights are remarkable there... but I cannot find any web connected site for their efforts.

We entered Albania along with the Autumn Adriatic storms. The drastic difference noticable immmediately upon crossing the border was unreal. The roads turned to dirt after the last big town in Montenegro, because until the mid-ninties, there was no way to enter or exit the country, borders were staunchly closed under the socialist-communist period. There were bunkers and rubbish everywhere, and the faces of the people were a bit dazed. Here I see that it is impossible for a community to survive once it becomes completely exclusive.
Those who were assigned, were allowed to drive horse buggies during the dictatorship, but cars were unthought of. It is a country of new, and insane drivers, as well as the place where old Mercedes go to die (mostly stolen from abroad). The country is inundated with missionaries and Peace Corps type do-gooders... yet we did find an inspiring group of women called TWIG who we met with and obtained some context (http://www.TWIG.org).

The art and culture of Albania is outstanding! They have been preserved as a culture and social expression distinctly their own, undescribable via comparison. Increadibly open, hospitable (gorging ourselves out of respect), and peaceful despite their repressed past. Here we spent days praying and meditating in mosques, Mother Theresas monument- home church, Stunned by gold streaked Cathedrials, and introduced to Orthodox worship centers... all in the same square.

Underneath the vail of commodity and capitalism that now covers Albania I can feel a deep saddness for what could have been, if perhaps in a slightly different shade, in Albania flourishing still today. A cooperative society working hard and respecting the earth and the value of equality I pray will still come to these people in a way that liberates.

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